On Thom Browne, one of my favorite designers

AS A FASHION DESIGNER AND A PROUDLY SELF-PROCLAIMED JAWNZ ENTHUSIAST, A LOT OF PEOPLE ASK, “WHO’S YOUR FAVORITE DESIGNER?”. SOMETIME’S IT’S A RANDOM RELATIVE THAT DOESN’T KNOW MUCH ABOUT WHAT I DO AND IS IN NO WAY EQUIPPED TO PROCESS MY RESPONSE, MORE LIKELY EXPECTING ME TO NAME CALVIN KLEIN OR RALPH LAUREN. MORE OFTEN THOUGH, I THINK IT’S A DISCUSSION HAD BETWEEN US FASHION ENTHUSIASTS OURSELVES. I COULD NEVER ANSWER THAT QUESTION STRAIGHT UP. I DON’T HAVE ONE FAVORITE DESIGNER, BUT RATHER DESIGNERS I HAVE IMMENSE RESPECT FOR, IN DIFFERENT WAYS. THIS IS LIKELY THE TYPE OF ANSWER YOU’D GET FROM ANYONE WHO HAS THOUGHT SERIOUSLY ABOUT FASHION. 

THERE ARE PARTICULAR DESIGNERS WHOSE CLOTHES WE LIKE TO WEAR. WHILE THERE ARE OTHER DESIGNERS WHOM WE’D NEVER WEAR BUT ABSOLUTELY LOVE THE ART - IT’S JUST NOT FOR US (OR ANYONE IN SOME CASES). ​​

This is all to say that there are different ways to qualify as a “favorite designer”. One of my favorite designers for about as long as I can remember being a consumer of Fashion has been Thom Browne. I have never owned a single item of clothing made by Thom Browne. Actually one, I got a vintage shirt from a coworker that he got at a great price, but I didn’t like the fit, and ended up gifting it to a friend. But Thom Browne has never made his way into my wardrobe. For one, even the most “accessible” items are easily in the three figures, making it well out of my budget in any feasible means. But moreover the brand doesn’t fit the way I dress in any way.


However, I absolutely love Thom Browne because of the beautiful uniform that he presents, and the ways in which he continuously plays within his own confines (often coloring outside the lines) to make fresh and exciting runway performances that are more art than design.


Uniform dressing is familiar to many, if not all, fashion people. Some do it, some swear against it, but the one fashion person most committed to it - and doing it the best - is Thom Browne. ​This dude is even committed to his uniform on his daily runs. His uniform is loosely based on a mid-century uniform of a working office man. But for some reason it's all been shrunk two sizes. For some even stranger reason it really works. Just look at these guys - and gals - all rocking the uni. 

But the brilliance of thom browne is not just committing to a kischy re-imagination of a way men used to dress. He has also proven himself countless times of the ability to put on a show. If i had to pick a favorite, it would have to be the mens fw15 runway show. the show was so slow, and notedly all in black (No grey!), and the music was fantastic. it was a key early influence on my senior thesis collection. Well just watch for yourself. 

This is just one of many wonderful shows he has put on for the past 15 years. i'll highlight one more favorite of mine. i think it is equally powerful, proving you don't have to do much to make a powerful show. this is his presentation as a special guest designer at pitti uomo for fw 2009.